Walk the Royal Mile: Edinburgh’s Most Historic Street

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One mile of cobblestones. Two royal residences at either end. And centuries of Scottish history packed into every close, courtyard, and corner. The Royal Mile is Edinburgh’s most famous street — and for good reason. This guide covers everything you need to know before you walk it.

What Is the Royal Mile?

The Royal Mile is not a single street. It is a sequence of connected streets running roughly one mile (1.6 km) through the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. The route runs from Edinburgh Castle at the top of Castle Rock down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the hill.

The streets are, from top to bottom: Castlehill (the short stretch immediately below the castle), Lawnmarket (historically where linen was sold), High Street (the longest and busiest section), and Canongate (the lower section leading to the palace). Each has its own character, but all share the same grey stone architecture, cobbled surfaces, and centuries of history.

The Two Royal Ends

Edinburgh Castle sits at the top of the Mile, perched on an ancient volcanic rock. It has been a royal residence, a military fortress, and a prison at various points in its long history. Today it is home to the Scottish Crown Jewels — the Honours of Scotland — and the Stone of Destiny. It is Scotland’s most visited paid attraction, drawing over two million visitors a year.

At the other end stands the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. It was the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, in the 16th century. Today it remains a working royal palace, and parts are open to visitors when the monarch is not in residence. Behind the palace, the dramatic cliffs of Arthur’s Seat rise above the city.

The Hidden Wynds and Closes

One of the best things about the Royal Mile is what lies off it. Running down both sides of the main street are narrow lanes called closes and wynds. These are some of the oldest surviving streets in Edinburgh, and many have remarkable stories attached to them.

Advocates’ Close offers one of the best framed views of the city. Step down a few stairs and look back — you get a direct line of sight across to the Firth of Forth and Fife. It is one of the most photographed spots in Edinburgh that most visitors walk straight past.

Mary King’s Close is now a visitor attraction beneath the Royal Mile. When the city built over the old closes in the 1600s and 1700s, the lower floors were sealed off. Today you can tour the preserved streets and rooms underground — a genuine snapshot of 17th-century Edinburgh life.

White Horse Close near the foot of the Canongate is one of the best-preserved 17th-century courtyards in the city. It was once a coaching inn and the departure point for the London stagecoach.

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St Giles’ Cathedral

Standing roughly in the middle of the Royal Mile, St Giles’ Cathedral is the spiritual heart of Edinburgh. Its distinctive crown-shaped spire has been a feature of the city’s skyline for over 500 years.

The cathedral was founded in the 12th century, though most of what you see today dates from the 14th and 15th centuries. It was here that John Knox preached the Scottish Reformation in the 1560s. The Thistle Chapel inside is one of the most ornate small interiors in Scotland — built in 1911, it remains the home of Scotland’s oldest order of chivalry, the Order of the Thistle.

Entry to the main body of the cathedral is free, though there is a small charge to enter the Thistle Chapel.

The Museum of Edinburgh

Halfway down the Canongate, the Museum of Edinburgh is housed in a 16th-century building called Huntly House. It covers the city’s history from prehistoric times to the present day. Entry is free.

The museum holds the original copy of the National Covenant of 1638 — the document that defined Presbyterian Scotland’s resistance to royal religious interference. It also has wide-ranging collections on city life through the centuries, and artefacts related to figures born or raised in the Canongate.

What You Might Walk Past Without Noticing

The Mercat Cross outside St Giles’ is where Royal Proclamations were made — and still are. When a new monarch is proclaimed, the announcement is made here. The current cross dates from 1885 but sits on the site of the medieval original.

The Heart of Midlothian is a mosaic of cobblestones set into the pavement near the cathedral. It marks the site of the Old Tolbooth prison, demolished in 1817. Edinburgh tradition says you spit on it for good luck — whether this is a genuinely old custom or a modern invention is debated. Expect to see tourists doing it regardless.

Canongate Kirkyard is the graveyard attached to Canongate Kirk, just below the midpoint of the Canongate. The economist Adam Smith is buried here, as are several other notable Scots. The kirkyard is open to the public and takes just a few minutes to walk through.

The Scottish Parliament building is a short walk beyond Holyroodhouse. Completed in 2004, it is a striking piece of modern architecture and a sharp contrast to everything on the Mile itself. Free guided tours are available when Parliament is not in session.

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Practical Information

Length: Approximately 1.6 km (1 mile) from the castle gates to the entrance of Holyroodhouse.

Direction: Most people walk downhill from the castle to the palace, which is easier on the legs. If you are arriving by train at Waverley Station, it is a 5-minute walk up to the Lawnmarket to begin at the castle end.

Time: Allow at least 2–3 hours to walk the Mile properly, including a stop at St Giles’ and a look down a few closes. If you are visiting the castle, Holyroodhouse, or Mary King’s Close, add 1–2 hours each.

Best time to visit: Early morning (before 9am) is the quietest. The Mile gets busy by mid-morning, particularly in summer.

Admission prices (approximate): Walking the street itself is free. Edinburgh Castle: adults from £22.50. Palace of Holyroodhouse: adults from £18.50. Mary King’s Close: adults from £18.50. St Giles’ Cathedral: free (Thistle Chapel £6).

Getting There

The Royal Mile sits in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town. The nearest train station is Edinburgh Waverley, a 5-minute walk away. From the station, take the stairs up to North Bridge and head up the Royal Mile towards the castle.

If you are arriving by bus, Princes Street runs parallel to the Royal Mile and is well served by most city routes. From there, head south uphill on any of the connecting streets.

There is very limited parking on the Royal Mile itself. If driving, use the Castle Terrace car park near the castle or the St John’s Hill car park near Holyroodhouse.

Worth Every Cobblestone

The Royal Mile is busy, and commercial in places. You will find whisky shops, tartan outlets, and tourist-facing restaurants along the way. But underneath the tourist economy is a genuinely historic street with a density of significant buildings and stories that is hard to match anywhere else in Britain.

Walk it slowly. Look up at the buildings. Turn down the closes. Read the plaques. The history is all there if you take the time to look.

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