
The West Highland Way is Scotland’s most famous long-distance walking route, and one of the greatest hikes in the world. Stretching 96 miles from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to the town of Fort William in the shadow of Ben Nevis, this West Highland Way hiking guide covers everything US visitors need to plan their trip. It takes most walkers between six and eight days to complete, passing through some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery along the way.
Americans discover the trail through word of mouth, hiking forums, and travel documentaries. Once you’ve heard about it, it’s hard to stop thinking about it. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or someone who’s never done a multi-day walk before, the West Highland Way is achievable with the right planning. This guide will help you do exactly that.
What Is the West Highland Way?
The West Highland Way opened in 1980 and was Scotland’s first official long-distance walking route. It runs from south to north, beginning in the suburban town of Milngavie (pronounced Mull-guy) on the outskirts of Glasgow, and finishing in Fort William at the base of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain.
The route covers 96 miles of varied terrain. You’ll walk through ancient oak woodlands, along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond, across the vast emptiness of Rannoch Moor, through the dramatic valley of Glencoe, and up over the Devil’s Staircase before descending into Fort William. It combines remote wilderness with historical depth at every stage.
Around 35,000 people complete the trail each year, and it draws visitors from across the United States, Australia, Europe, and beyond. The route is well-signposted with a distinctive thistle waymarker, so navigation is straightforward even for those new to long-distance walking.
The Key Stages and What to Expect
The West Highland Way is typically divided into seven main stages, though many walkers split some sections into shorter days to reduce mileage. Here’s a practical overview of the route from south to north:
Milngavie to Drymen (12.5 miles)
The route begins at an obelisk in Milngavie town centre. This opening stage is gentle and largely flat, following the West Highland Way through farmland and the Mugdock Country Park before reaching the attractive village of Drymen. It’s an ideal warm-up day. Drymen has good accommodation options and a welcoming pub to recover in.
Drymen to Rowardennan (13 miles)
This is where the route becomes visually stunning. The trail climbs over Conic Hill, which rewards walkers with the first panoramic view of Loch Lomond and its islands below. You then descend to the loch shore at Balmaha, a popular stopping point, before continuing to Rowardennan. The views across the loch are exceptional.
Rowardennan to Inverarnan (13.5 miles)
The longest and most challenging section along Loch Lomond. The path hugs the steep, rocky eastern shore and requires more effort than previous stages. Sections can be rough underfoot, particularly after rain. However, the compensation is absolute solitude and some of the most atmospheric loch scenery in Scotland. At Inverarnan, the Drovers Inn has been serving travellers since 1705.
Inverarnan to Tyndrum (12.5 miles)
The landscape opens up significantly on this stage. The path follows the River Falloch north through wide glacial valleys before climbing gently to the village of Tyndrum. This section feels like a transition from the lowland greenery of Loch Lomond to the wilder Highland landscapes that lie ahead. Tyndrum is a good resupply stop with a real baker and a well-stocked shop.
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Tyndrum to Kingshouse (19 miles)
This is the longest and most dramatic stage of the entire route. From Tyndrum, the path rises through Bridge of Orchy and then onto Rannoch Moor. The moor is one of the largest wilderness areas in Britain — a vast, flat blanket of peat and heather with almost no shelter and a raw, elemental beauty. The descent from the moor into Glencoe is one of the most memorable moments of the whole walk. The Kingshouse Hotel, one of Scotland’s oldest inns, sits at the end of this stage.
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (9 miles)
A shorter but more intense stage. The route climbs steeply up the Devil’s Staircase, which at 548 metres is the highest point on the West Highland Way. The views from the top, on a clear day, stretch deep into the Glen Coe mountains. The descent into Kinlochleven is equally rewarding. This small village at the head of Loch Leven has excellent accommodation options and a very good pub.
Kinlochleven to Fort William (15 miles)
The final stage. The path climbs out of Kinlochleven through the Mamore mountains before making a long, gradual descent through ancient Caledonian pine forest into Fort William. Ben Nevis appears ahead of you as you approach the finish line, and on a clear day, it’s breathtaking. The official end of the West Highland Way is at the roundabout on the High Street in Fort William.
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How Long Does the West Highland Way Take?
Most walkers complete the West Highland Way in six to eight days. A six-day itinerary requires some long mileage days, so seven or eight days is more comfortable for most people. Some experienced hikers complete it in five days, but this is demanding.
If you have limited time, you can walk sections rather than the full route. The Loch Lomond stages or the Glencoe and Kinlochleven stages are both spectacular on their own and accessible by public transport from Glasgow or Edinburgh. Doing sections is increasingly popular with US visitors who want the Highland experience without the full commitment.
Best Time to Walk the West Highland Way
The most popular time to walk is June, July, and August. The days are long, the weather is at its most reliable, and the scenery is at its most vibrant. June is particularly recommended because the midges — tiny biting insects — are less active early in the season than in July and August.
May and September are also good options. The trail is quieter, accommodation is easier to book, and the autumn colours in September are exceptional. April and October are possible for experienced walkers, but expect shorter days, colder temperatures, and a higher chance of snow at higher elevations.
Winter walking is not recommended without significant mountaineering experience and specialist equipment. For detailed advice on when to visit, see our month-by-month guide to the Scottish Highlands.
Where to Stay Along the West Highland Way
Accommodation along the route falls into several categories. Most walkers use a combination of them.
Bunkhouses and hostels are the most affordable option and are found at most stage end points — Drymen, Balmaha, Rowardennan, Inverarnan, Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, Kingshouse, and Kinlochleven all have bunkhouse-style accommodation. These fill quickly in peak season, so book well in advance.
B&Bs and guesthouses are available at most stopping points and offer a more comfortable finish to a long day. Prices range from around £60 to £100 per person including breakfast.
Wild camping is legal in Scotland under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, and Loch Lomond is a particularly popular wild camping area. A permit zone operates on the eastern Loch Lomond shore between March and September, requiring walkers to use designated camping bays with a small fee. Check the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park website for current permit details.
Luggage transfer services are available from multiple companies along the route. They collect your main pack each morning and deliver it to your next accommodation, so you walk with just a daypack. This makes the walk significantly more comfortable and is popular with US visitors who prefer not to carry a full multi-day load.
How to Get to the Start and Back from Fort William
Getting to the West Highland Way is straightforward for US visitors flying into Glasgow or Edinburgh.
From Glasgow, take the ScotRail train from Glasgow Queen Street station to Milngavie. The journey takes approximately 20 minutes and trains run frequently throughout the day. Milngavie station is a short walk from the West Highland Way obelisk at the start.
From Edinburgh, take the train to Glasgow Queen Street (50 minutes) and connect to Milngavie. This is a straightforward connection with good frequency.
At the finish in Fort William, ScotRail runs a train service back to Glasgow Queen Street, taking approximately 3 hours and 40 minutes. The scenic Jacobite route through Rannoch Moor is one of the most spectacular train journeys in Europe. Citylink coaches also operate between Fort William and both Glasgow and Edinburgh. For more on getting around Scotland, see our complete Scotland travel guide for US visitors.
What to Pack: Essential Kit for US Hikers
Scottish weather changes quickly, even in summer. Preparing properly makes a significant difference to your enjoyment of the walk.
Waterproofs are non-negotiable. A quality waterproof jacket and over-trousers are essential, whatever the forecast says. Scotland can deliver all four seasons in a single day, and Rannoch Moor in particular can be exposed and wet even in July.
Footwear should be waterproof hiking boots that are well broken in before you start. Blisters are the most common reason people struggle on the West Highland Way, and most blister issues come from new or poorly fitting boots. Wear your boots on several day walks before attempting the route.
Layers work better than single heavy items. A moisture-wicking base layer, a midlayer fleece, and a waterproof shell cover most conditions you’ll encounter.
Maps and navigation. The route is well waymarked, but carry the Harvey Maps West Highland Way strip map as a backup. Download the trail on your phone through the OS Maps or AllTrails apps before you leave, and carry a portable power bank to keep your phone charged during longer days.
Midge repellent is essential from June onwards. Smidge is widely considered the most effective brand available in Scotland, and you’ll find it in outdoor shops in Glasgow, Milngavie, and along the route. Apply it generously on still, damp evenings when midges are most active.
Tips for Completing the West Highland Way
Book accommodation in advance. The most popular dates (late June, July, early August) see popular bunkhouses and B&Bs fill up months ahead. If you’re travelling in peak season and haven’t booked yet, check directly with accommodation providers for last-minute cancellations.
Start early each day. Most West Highland Way walkers begin walking by 7am or 8am. This gives you time to complete the stage comfortably, rest when you arrive, and avoid bottlenecks at ferry crossings and popular viewpoints.
Carry cash. Some of the more remote bunkhouses and pubs along the route don’t always accept card payments. Having some cash for smaller transactions avoids awkward moments.
Register for a West Highland Way passport at the start in Milngavie. You collect stamps at various points along the route and receive a completion certificate at the finish in Fort William, available from the Fort William Visitor Information Centre.
If you want to combine the West Highland Way with more Highland exploration, Inverness is an easy day trip from Fort William by train, and the North Coast 500 begins in Inverness if you want to continue your Scottish adventure by car.
Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult is the West Highland Way for beginners?
The West Highland Way is graded as moderate difficulty. Most reasonably fit adults can complete it with good preparation. The key requirements are building up your fitness before you go with regular walking, wearing well-broken-in boots, and allowing enough days to avoid rushing. The Loch Lomond section has some rougher, rockier paths, but there are no technical climbing sections.
What is the hardest section of the West Highland Way?
Most walkers find the Loch Lomond section between Rowardennan and Inverarnan the toughest, due to the rocky, uneven path along the steep loch shore. The Devil’s Staircase between Kingshouse and Kinlochleven is steep but short, and the ascent is clearly marked. The Rannoch Moor section on the long Tyndrum to Kingshouse stage can be challenging in bad weather due to its exposed, shelterless nature.
Do I need a permit to walk the West Highland Way?
No permit is required to walk the West Highland Way itself. If you plan to wild camp on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond between March and September, you need to book a camping permit through the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park website. This applies to overnight camping in the managed zone and costs a small fee per night.
Can I walk the West Highland Way solo as a US visitor?
Yes, absolutely. A significant proportion of West Highland Way walkers complete it solo each year, including many from the United States. The route is well signposted, the walking community is very welcoming, and you’ll naturally encounter other walkers at bunkhouses and staging points each day. Solo walking on the West Highland Way is considered safe and well-supported.
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