The Highland Town That Was Planned in 1788 — and Still Feels Like a Secret

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Some towns grow slowly, shaped by whoever lived there first. Ullapool was different. In 1788, the British Fisheries Society arrived in the northwest Highlands with a blueprint. They drew neat grid streets, built a small harbour, and declared a fishing town open for business.

More than two centuries later, that same grid still stands on the shore of Loch Broom. And somehow, Ullapool still feels like something most visitors stumble upon by accident.

The Town That Nobody Expected

Ullapool was designed to solve a problem. Herring were plentiful in the northwest, but there was nowhere to process them. The British Fisheries Society chose a shallow promontory on Loch Broom, drew up plans for 47 plots, and built an entire settlement from scratch.

Those original streets — Shore Street, Argyle Street, West Shore Street — still form the spine of the town today. The whitewashed cottages remain. The harbour still welcomes fishing boats every morning.

The herring are long gone, replaced by langoustines, crabs, and the CalMac ferry to Stornoway. But the bones of that 1788 plan are still visible if you know where to look.

The Gateway to the Outer Hebrides

If you want to reach the Isle of Lewis or Harris, you come through Ullapool. The Stornoway ferry leaves from the main pier, and the town has shaped itself around the rhythm of arrivals and departures.

The crossing takes just over two hours. In summer, the pier fills with travellers waiting to board. In winter, when the ferry fights the Atlantic swell, Ullapool quietly keeps itself company.

Many visitors plan an overnight stay before or after the ferry — and then discover they want to stay considerably longer.

Life on Loch Broom

Ullapool sits on the southern shore of Loch Broom, a long sea loch that reaches deep into the mountains. The An Teallach massif rises to the south — one of the finest mountain ridges in Scotland — visible on clear days from the town itself.

In summer, sailing boats fill the loch. Seals appear on the rocks near the harbour mouth. Porpoises have been spotted just offshore on calm evenings.

The surrounding countryside offers some of the finest walking in the Highlands, from gentle riverside paths along the River Broom to the more demanding ridges of the Beinn Dearg group to the east.

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What to Do in Ullapool

The town punches well above its weight for culture. The Ullapool Book Festival (held each May) draws writers from across Scotland and beyond. Live music fills the pubs on summer evenings, often without a ticket in sight.

The Ceilidh Place

A Highland institution — hotel, bookshop, café, and live music venue under one roof. It has been running since 1970, and the ethos has not changed: good food, good music, good conversation. The noticeboard alone is worth reading.

Ullapool Museum

Housed in a converted church on West Argyle Street, the museum tells the story of the town’s founding and the herring boom that followed. It also covers the later era when Klondyker factory ships from Eastern Europe moored in the loch to buy fish directly from local trawlers — a strange and vivid chapter in Ullapool’s history.

The Arch Inn

On West Shore Street, right on the loch front. On a summer evening with the mountains reflected in the water, there are few better views in the Highlands from a pub window. Arrive early.

Getting There — and What Is Nearby

Ullapool sits 58 miles north of Inverness on the A835, roughly a two-hour drive. The road passes through Garve, along the shores of Loch Glascarnoch, and then drops dramatically into Strath More before the loch comes into view.

If you are driving the North Coast 500, Ullapool is the natural midpoint on the western leg. From here, the road north passes Knockan Crag, the extraordinary Kylesku Bridge, and into some of the most remote country in Britain.

The road to Applecross is less than an hour to the south — perhaps the most dramatic single-track route in Scotland, with views across to Skye that will stop you in your tracks.

Frequently Asked Questions About Ullapool

What is the best time to visit Ullapool?

Late May to September offers the longest days and warmest weather. May also brings the Ullapool Book Festival, which adds a cultural dimension to the trip. The shoulder months of April and October are beautiful too — fewer visitors, and the light on the loch is extraordinary.

How do you get to Ullapool from Inverness?

Ullapool is 58 miles north of Inverness on the A835 — roughly a two-hour drive. Scottish Citylink operates daily coach services from Inverness bus station. There is no direct train; the nearest station is Inverness.

Is Ullapool worth visiting if you are not taking the ferry to Lewis?

Absolutely. Ullapool stands on its own merits — the setting on Loch Broom, the walking, the pub music, and the food make it one of the most satisfying small towns in the Highlands. Many visitors use it as a base for exploring the northwest coast for several days.

Can you see the Northern Lights from Ullapool?

Yes. On clear nights between October and March, Ullapool’s position in the far northwest gives a clear northern horizon away from city light pollution, making it a genuine Northern Lights destination. Loch Broom adds a reflective foreground on active nights.

Ullapool was designed on paper, built to a plan, and opened for business in 1788. Nobody drew a blueprint for what would make it so magnetic two centuries later.

But then, nobody planned for the mountains either — or the golden light on the loch at dusk, or the sound of a fiddle drifting from a pub doorway on a long summer evening.

Ullapool simply is. And once you find it, it is very hard to leave.

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