A CalMac ferry slips out of Rothesay harbour on the Isle of Bute, and the view is hard to beat. Scotland has hundreds of islands, and for many of them a boat is the only way on. For visitors, the ferry is not just transport. It is often the best part of the trip.
This guide covers the best-loved Scottish ferry crossings, what to expect, and how to plan your journey without stress.
How Scottish ferries work
Most west coast and island routes are run by Caledonian MacBrayne, known as CalMac. The company serves dozens of islands from the Clyde to the Outer Hebrides. Northern Isles routes to Orkney and Shetland are run by NorthLink Ferries, and Pentland Ferries and Western Ferries run some shorter crossings of their own.
Many CalMac routes use Road Equivalent Tariff, or RET. This sets fares by distance, in a way similar to a road journey, and it has made trips to many islands cheaper for visitors and locals alike. Prices still vary by route, vehicle size and season, so always check the current fare before you book.
Wemyss Bay to Rothesay, Isle of Bute
This is the crossing in our photo, and it is one of the easiest ways to reach an island from Glasgow. Trains run from Glasgow Central to Wemyss Bay, and the station is built right beside the ferry terminal. Its Victorian ironwork and curved roof make it one of the prettiest stations in Scotland.
The crossing to Rothesay takes about 35 minutes. Once there, you can visit Rothesay Castle, a ruined moated fortress, and Mount Stuart, a grand Victorian Gothic house. The town also has a well-known set of Victorian public toilets that people do visit for their tiled interior. Bute works well as a day trip, so it suits first-time ferry users.
Oban to Craignure, Isle of Mull
Oban calls itself the gateway to the isles, and this is the route that shows why. The crossing to Mull takes around 45 minutes. On the way you pass lighthouses, small islands and, on a clear day, the hills of Morvern and Lismore.
From Craignure you can reach Duart Castle in a few minutes by car or bus. Tobermory, with its painted harbour front, is about 45 minutes away by road. Oban is also the port for Coll, Tiree, Colonsay, Barra and South Uist, so it is a good base if you want to island hop.
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Mallaig to Armadale, Isle of Skye
Skye has a road bridge, but many visitors still choose the boat. The Mallaig to Armadale crossing takes about 45 minutes and starts from one of the best-known fishing ports on the west coast. The road to Mallaig, via Glenfinnan, is a highlight in itself, and the Jacobite steam train also runs to the town in season.
Taking this route means you arrive on the quieter southern end of Skye, the Sleat peninsula. It is a good way to see a different side of the island, away from the busiest spots.
Ardrossan to Brodick, Isle of Arran
Arran is often called Scotland in miniature, with highland scenery in the north and gentler land in the south. The ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick takes about 55 minutes and is linked to the train from Glasgow. Brodick Castle, the Arran Distillery and the walk up Goat Fell are all within reach.
This route is popular at weekends and in summer. If you are taking a car, book as early as you can.
Ullapool to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis
This is one of the longer CalMac crossings, at around two and a half hours. It links the Highland mainland with the Outer Hebrides. You get time to settle in, have a hot meal and watch the coast fade behind you. Sea birds, and sometimes dolphins or porpoises, can often be seen from the deck.
From Stornoway you can drive to the Callanish Standing Stones and the beaches of Harris. Allow at least three or four days to do the islands justice.
Short crossings with big views
Not every ferry has to be a long one. Some of the most fun crossings in Scotland take only minutes.
- Corran Ferry: a short hop across Loch Linnhe near Fort William, which saves a long drive round the loch.
- Largs to Cumbrae: about ten minutes to Millport, a great spot for cycling around the island.
- Glenelg to Skye: a small summer ferry that is known for using a rare turntable design. Check that it is running before you plan around it.
- Scrabster to Stromness: a longer route to Orkney, with views of the Old Man of Hoy cliffs on the way.
How to plan your ferry trip
A little planning goes a long way. Here are the basics.
- Book vehicles early. Car spaces on popular routes sell out in summer, and sometimes at Easter and on bank holidays. Foot passengers can often turn up on the day, but it is safer to check.
- Check the service status. Wind and rough seas can cause delays or cancellations. Look at the operator’s website or app on the morning you travel.
- Arrive in good time. Check-in rules differ by route, so read your booking email. Many routes ask you to be at the terminal 30 minutes or more before sailing.
- Think about a plan B. If you are heading to a smaller island, leave a spare day at the end of your trip in case of weather.
- Consider going without a car. Many islands have buses, bike hire and taxis. Walking on is usually cheaper, and a lot of ferry ports sit next to train stations.
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What to pack for the crossing
The weather on deck can be very different from the weather on land. Bring a windproof jacket, even in summer. A hat and gloves are useful in spring and autumn. If you get seasick, take tablets before you board, not after, and sit in the middle of the boat where the motion is gentler.
Most larger ferries have a café or restaurant serving hot food, tea and coffee. Smaller boats may have only a vending machine or nothing at all, so carry water and a snack. Dogs are usually welcome, but rules on where they can travel vary, so check before you go.
The best time to travel
Summer gives the longest days and the most sailings, but it is also the busiest. May, June and September are a good middle ground, with long light evenings and fewer crowds. Winter timetables are often cut back, and bad weather causes more disruption, but the islands are quiet and the light can be superb.
Which crossing will you pick?
There is no single best Scottish ferry. Rothesay is easy and close to Glasgow, Oban and Mull offer classic island scenery, and Ullapool to Stornoway feels like a real voyage. The right choice depends on how much time you have and how far you want to go.
Tell us your favourite on our Facebook page, and let us know if you have a crossing we should add to the list.
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Header photo: Caledonian MacBrayne ferry near Oban, by Andrew Dawes on Unsplash. Timings are approximate and can change, so always check the latest timetable with the ferry operator.