Orkney: Why Scotland’s Northern Islands Are Worth the Journey

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Scotland’s northern islands sit roughly 10 miles off the tip of Caithness, separated from the mainland by the Pentland Firth — one of the most powerful stretches of tidal water in the world. Orkney is not a single island but an archipelago of 70, of which 20 are inhabited. It has some of the oldest buildings on earth, more prehistoric sites per square mile than almost anywhere in Europe, and a landscape that stops people mid-sentence when they first see it.

This guide covers the practical side: how to get there, what to see, and why Orkney rewards visitors who make the effort.

Getting to Orkney

The most common route is the ferry from Scrabster (near Thurso) to Stromness, run by NorthLink Ferries. The crossing takes about 90 minutes and gives you some of the best views of the Old Man of Hoy — a 137-metre sea stack on the island of Hoy — from the water. Ferries also run from Gill’s Bay to St Margaret’s Hope, and from Aberdeen directly to Kirkwall overnight. Book ahead in summer; the ferry fills quickly between June and August.

If you prefer to fly, Loganair operates flights from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Inverness into Kirkwall Airport. Flight times are short — around an hour from Edinburgh — and the views on approach over the Firth can be dramatic. Flights are worth considering if your time on the mainland is limited.

Once on Orkney, you’ll need transport. A hire car is the most practical option if you want to cover more than Kirkwall and Stromness. Public buses do run on the Mainland (the central, largest island), but they don’t reach sites like Skara Brae or the Ring of Brodgar on a convenient schedule for day visitors.

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What to See on Mainland Orkney

Orkney Mainland holds most of the major sites, and you could spend three or four days here alone without running short of things to do.

Skara Brae is the standout. This Neolithic village on the Bay of Skaill dates back to around 3,100 BC — older than Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. The stone-built settlement was buried under sand dunes for thousands of years until a storm exposed it in 1850. Today you can walk beside the low stone walls, look into the rooms, and see furniture — beds, shelves, fireplaces — that has survived more than five millennia. Entry is managed by Historic Environment Scotland; the visitor centre gives useful context before you walk the site.

The Ring of Brodgar is a Neolithic stone circle on a narrow strip of land between two lochs. Around 27 of the original 60 stones still stand. The site has no formal entrance fee and no visitor centre at the circle itself — you park at the road and walk in. Early morning or evening visits, when tour groups are absent, are worth planning for.

The Stones of Stenness nearby date to around 3,100 BC and are among the oldest standing stones in Scotland. Four remain upright. They’re on the same road as Brodgar, and most visitors stop at both on the same outing.

Maeshowe is a chambered cairn from around 2,800 BC. What makes it unusual — aside from its architecture, which is precisely aligned with the winter solstice — is the largest collection of Viking runic graffiti ever found. In the 1150s, Norsemen broke in and left hundreds of carvings: some boastful, some crude. Visits are by guided tour only; book through the Historic Environment Scotland website.

Kirkwall is the main town and worth an hour or two regardless of where you’re staying. St Magnus Cathedral, started in 1137, dominates the centre and is one of the finest Romanesque buildings in Scotland. Entry is free.

The Island of Hoy

Hoy is the second largest of the Orkney islands and the most dramatic in scenery. The Old Man of Hoy is the famous landmark — a sandstone column rising 137 metres from the sea on the island’s west coast. It’s a serious rock-climbing challenge, but you don’t need to climb it to see it. The walk from Rackwick Bay takes around two hours each way, crossing moorland and clifftop paths, and the views when you arrive are exceptional.

The island is reached by a short passenger ferry from Stromness. Hoy has very limited accommodation, so most visitors come on a day trip and return to Stromness in the evening.

Food, Drink, and Wildlife

Orkney beef and lamb are known across Scotland. The cattle here produce some of the highest-quality beef in the country, and it appears on menus throughout Kirkwall and Stromness. The crab, lobster, and oysters landed locally are also excellent. The Orkney Brewery and Highland Park distillery — one of the world’s northernmost whisky distilleries — are both in Kirkwall and offer tours.

For wildlife, the sea cliffs at Marwick Head are home to large colonies of guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and puffins in spring and early summer. Grey and common seals are common along most coastlines. Orca, harbour porpoise, and minke whales pass through Orkney waters, though sightings are never guaranteed.

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When to Visit

The best time to visit Orkney is May through September. July and August are the busiest months — ferry and accommodation bookings fill up months in advance. May and early June offer longer days (Orkney sits at 59 degrees north, so midsummer daylight stretches past 11pm), fewer crowds, and wildflowers along the coastal paths.

October and November bring dramatic weather and very low visitor numbers. The main sites remain open, and if you’re comfortable with shorter days and the possibility of rough crossings, the island has a different quality in autumn — quieter and more exposed.

Winter is for those who specifically want to experience Orkney at its most elemental. A handful of accommodation options stay open year-round, and the Northern Lights are occasionally visible from late September through March.

Practical Information

• Ferry booking: NorthLink Ferries (northlinkferries.co.uk) — book as early as possible for summer travel
• Historic sites: Historic Environment Scotland manages Skara Brae, Maeshowe, and several other key sites; a joint Explorer Pass covers multiple sites and works out cheaper than individual entry
• Car hire: Available in Kirkwall at the airport and ferry terminal; book in advance in summer
• Accommodation: Kirkwall and Stromness have the widest range of options; self-catering cottages are available across the Mainland and outer islands
• Getting between islands: Orkney Ferries runs services between Mainland and the outer islands; some smaller crossings are weather-dependent
• Highland Park Distillery tours: Available year-round, advance booking recommended in summer

Is Orkney Worth the Journey?

Orkney is not the easiest place in Scotland to reach, and that is part of why it stays as it is. The landscape, the prehistoric sites, and the sheer scale of what has survived here are genuinely extraordinary. The Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae, and Maeshowe alone would justify a trip; the coastline, food, and wildlife add to it considerably.

If you’re planning a trip to the north of Scotland, it makes little sense to stop at John o’ Groats when the ferry to Orkney leaves a few miles away at Scrabster. Allow at least three nights on the Mainland, and consider adding a day on Hoy if your schedule permits.

The sky over those green headlands looks different when you’re standing beneath it. That part, no guide can fully prepare you for.

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